I've traveled a lot. Like quite a lot. Maybe I haven't been to as many countries or places as some of my friends. But, having been to somewhere around 25 countries, it is quite safe to say travel is in my blood.
I've done many cheapo vacations and I've also done those more on the luxurious side. But, my main goal is always to discover something about the place and try to connect with people. I always want to try to get a feel for what it might be like to live there. For me, that is far and away the best part.
However, I won't lie. As I've gotten older, I've gotten more interested how I get there, not just getting there any way possible. I'm trying to avoid the middle economy seat whenever possible, but that's my preference.
During my travel window-shopping, I stumbled across this video by Jeb Brooks at GreenerGrass.com the other day and thought this looked amazing! Traveling by train cross-country has never really been especially appealing to me, but for some reason, this was intriguing. I was already familiar with the Belmond brand, because I'm always a sucker for an amazing infinity pool.
The train is called the Andean Explorer and travels from Cusco, optional stop in Puno, to Arequipa. Annoyingly, I keep wanting to revert to calling it arequipe – the delicious South American version of dulce de leche. I bet they also serve that onboard, but I digress. The overall trip is three days and you go up 14K feet above sea level. All, while being able to see the changing Andean views.
I am not sure how I would do being on a train for that long. There is a part of me that wonders if I'd start to feel a bit claustrophobic, but it seems there are some opportunities to step out a bit. There is a stopover in Puno, where you can go out to the floating Uros Islands on Lake Titikaka. The islands, completely artificial and made from totora reeds, have an interesting history.
I need to insert here, that I'm very aware of the um... absurdity ... of getting off a 5-star luxury train and going to visit people who will most likely never get the chance to go on such a trip. It is privilege of the highest order. But my hopes are in talking a bit more about this culture, that I can peak your interest and curiosity to learn more.
But let's go back to the Uros people.
The entire Uru nation consists of 8 communities and allyus (clans) and call themselves Qhas qot zoñi (hombres de los aguas) or literally, men of the waters. They have inhabited the high plain region along the axis of Andean lakes and rivers that run through Peru, Bolivia, and Chile since pre-Colombian times. The Uros are among the island clan communities that are located in the Puno-Perú bay area. Their economy and way of life are extremely tied to the water and its resources. However tragically, due to the changing climate conditions and the disappearance of Lake Poopó, some Uru regions have been forced to either try to find other means to live or relocate entirely to other regions.(Photo: Map of Uro people distribution in the Andean altiplano region / ©2013 Sandoval et al.)
The Uros islands are located in the bay area near Puno and were built for protection from invaders. I've read there are anywhere from 62 to 120 of them, so yeah, ... somewhere around there. If the inhabitants came under threat, they could just move the island elsewhere.
Traditionally, the Uros are fishermen, but also hunt birds, gather eggs, and keep cattle on the mainland. They are pretty modern as well. They can get electricity by solar panels and have all the TVs and cell phones that one might expect. They also have a community run radio station. Of course knowing this, I totally needed to set off to find out if they have a live stream. So far I haven't found one, but if you're curious about folkloric and huarochirana music, check out Radio Inca.
The Islands
Originally, the islands were built further out in the lake, but were moved inland due to a large storm in 1986. They are made by weaving a base together from the reeds, which can be up to 6.5 feet / 2 meters thick, and are attached to the lake bed by using sticks and rope.
They are maintained by adding new layers of reeds every two or three weeks when those at the bottom start rotting. If they are well taken care of, the islands can last up to 30 years. (Photo 1: Google Earth) (Photo 2: Shutterstock/romeovip_md)
Artesanías
According to this beautiful documentary, the Uros culture developed in relative isolation until the 2000s, when they began welcoming tourism. This helped provide a valuable source of income while also being a source of cultural pride.
Uru artisanal objects are usually made with straw, totora reed, wool, wood, clay, and other materials. They are not only sold to tourists but used in daily life, like ponchos, sombreros, and liwis – a weapon made of rope divided into three sections with balls attached at the ends. It is used to catch animals like cattle and birds. You could also take out an enemy or two with one... you know.... if you needed to.
Each object is made by hand and the knowledge of how to make it is handed down from generation to generation and everyone takes part. One learns to make by watching, listening, making, and practicing. (Photo: Shutterstock/Diana Guevara)
If you can read Spanish, I recommend checking out a wonderful document called "Knowledge and Know-How in Artisan Crafts of the Urus from Lake Poopó", where you can read more in-depth about the crafts and their role in society. It was made by local community groups in coordination with the Institute of Uru Languages and Cultures and the Educational Council of the Uru nation with the aim of promoting Uru culture. It has a ginormous amount of great pictures and you'll get a better feel for the art behind the object. You can also find a wealth of information on the host site.
Nuestras artesanías muestran lo que somos porque es parte de nuestra cultura. Todo lo que hacemos está en nuestras artesanías para que el mundo conozca a la Nación Uru.
All of our artisan crafts show who we are and why they are part of our culture. Everything we do is encompassed in our handmade objects so that the world can know who the Uru Nation is." – From p. 14. (Photo: Shutterstock/sharptoyou)
Going There
In the Andean Explorer video, the host and his wife are able to do an excursion from the train to the islands. They even got a boat tour on a totora reed boat. If you're curious to go but don't imagine yourself on a luxury train any time soon, you can check out more information from the official Peruvian tourism site. You might even find opportunities to stay with a family who can invite you to participate in some of their normal, daily activities. You might be able to help make reed canoes, make some crafts, or help with some net fishing.
To get there, you want to go from Puno, which can be reached from Cusco, Arequipa, and La Paz, Bolivia. From there, it's about 20 minutes out to the islands.
Lastly, I'll add that if you are located in the northern hemisphere, it's probably a good idea to go in winter time. That would make it summer in Peru. And given that you are going to be 14K above sea level, you'll probably want all the chance at warmth possible.
So that's my small tour of the Uros for this chapter. Have you been here? Tell me about your experience in the comments!
Stay tuned for my look at the harrowing Camino de la Muerte or,..... Road of Death. (*insert ominous music*) (Photo: Shutterstock/ Scott Biales DitchTheMap)
Juanita on Jul 03, 2023
I loved this description of your trip! I have been to Bolivia as well, but would love to try this luxury train someday!